By Bolormaa Purevjav
This is a part of our series on “Change in the countryside.”
After living in Vancouver, Canada, for six years while completing my PhD, I returned to Mongolia in the summer of 2024. This visit was an opportunity to reconnect with my homeland and witness the changes that had taken place over the years. I spent the summer traveling across four provinces—Khovd and Zavkhan in the west and Sukhbaatar and Dornod in the east. Having extensively traveled across Mongolia in the past, I was eager to revisit these regions, which are known for their breathtaking landscapes and contrasting natural beauty.
Western provinces: coffee over milk tea
In the western provinces, the magnificent mountains filled me with the same energy and admiration as before. However, it was impossible to ignore the rapid modernization in provincial centers. New hotels offering Western-style breakfasts and coffee had emerged. Surprisingly, traditional Mongolian milk tea (suutei tsai) and boorzog—a classic fried pastry often enjoyed with fresh cream—were absent from the menus. When I inquired, the answer was clear: fresh cream and milk tea were no longer commonly made, as making and serving coffee was considered more “modern and cool,” alongside the convenience of coffee machines, which were perhaps also more profitable. It was striking to see coffee culture take root deeply, even in rural Mongolia.
Another noticeable shift was in service quality. While infrastructure had improved, hospitality had not kept pace. Hotel staff often lacked proper training—some hotels had clean rooms yet with unchanged bed sheets and missing towels. Previously, I enjoyed chatting with staff, who eagerly shared stories about their communities. This time, however, many were distant or too busy to engage.
A concerning dynamic was also noticeable in workplaces, where young employees were subjected to verbal criticism without regard for their feelings during my visit in throughout the provinces I visited. This lack of empathy at the workplace, reservations of emotional connection and openness in the general hospitality and general work environments shows the growing disconnect between modernization and emotional intelligence.
Eastern provinces: New economic growth and changing traditional economy
In the eastern provinces, a different set of dynamics played out. Hotels in Sukhbaatar and Dornod were fully booked, bustling with tourists and business people from China and Russia. In Dornod, a major event in Khalkhyn Gol soum commemorated Mongolia’s victory over Japan in 1945 in alliance with the Soviet Union, which accounted for the influx of Russian visitors. Chinese businesses were visibly expanding their presence in both provinces. This rise in Chinese presence reflects the deeper economic interconnections emerging between Mongolia and its neighbours, though it also raises concerns about local industries.
In Sukhbaatar, herders suffered devastating livestock losses, with some losing up to 80% of their animals due to the harsh winter (dzud). Despite these struggles, I deeply admired the wisdom and resilience of an older herder who told me, “Nature has given to us abundantly for years. If it takes back once, that is acceptable—it will give again in time.” His words reflected a profound understanding of the natural cycle, but I also recognized that younger herders, especially those with families of three to five children, could not afford to be so patient. The risks of losing everything were too high, and many were contemplating giving up herding as a primary livelihood. Instead, they were seeking alternative income sources to reduce their vulnerability and avoid further risks to their families’ survival.
Nevertheless, Mongolia’s resilience remains strong. The entrepreneurial spirit is alive, with young Mongolians striving to start businesses and adapt to changing market demands.
Herders, though struggling, continue to find ways to sustain their livelihoods, forming cooperatives and adjusting migration patterns to cope with climate change.
Economic divide and social challenges
A growing economic divide is becoming increasingly evident, particularly in urban areas. The gap between wealthy elites and ordinary citizens continues to widen. While supermarkets are well-stocked, reflecting the country’s consumer-driven growth, poor customer service persists. This issue stems from a lack of proper training, low wages, and heavy workloads within the service sector. Despite the availability of goods, the quality of service remains subpar, which contributes to customer dissatisfaction.
Young Mongolians are seeking opportunities abroad due to the prospect of better job opportunities and higher wages. This migration of skilled workers is leaving critical sectors, such as healthcare and education, struggling to find qualified professionals. The loss of talent is creating gaps in these essential services, further deepening the inequality between those who can access quality services and those who cannot.
Social cohesion and young Mongolians
The growing division between different social groups is weakening trust in institutions and breaking down social cohesion. As the gap widens between the wealthy elites and the rest of society, many people feel increasingly disconnected from the country’s progress and the institutions that should be serving them. This sense of disconnection leads to frustration and a loss of trust in the government and other societal systems, as people feel that their needs are being overlooked.
This feeling of frustration is particularly strong among younger generations. They face harsh workplace environments, financial struggles, and uncertainty about their futures. With many young people facing low job security, heavy workloads, and a lack of career advancement opportunities, their stress levels increase. The morale declines, and ethical standards in the workplace suffer. This situation contributes to a growing sense of disillusionment, with many individuals feeling that their efforts won’t lead to a better future. As optimism fades, people become less motivated to work together or contribute to society’s overall well-being.
Ulaanbaatar, progress and pollution
Ulaanbaatar, too, has transformed, both positively and negatively. Office culture has modernized, with some workplaces adopting hybrid models, reflecting broader global trends. More Mongolians are gaining international education and experience, bringing back valuable skills and ideas. Amid rapid changes, the country retains its strong cultural identity, with traditions such as Naadam, throat singing, and respect for elders continuing to shape society.
At the same time, air pollution and traffic congestion have worsened significantly, overshadowing the city’s progress. The thick smog poses a severe health risk, affecting not only the current population but also unborn children. Addressing air pollution is not just an environmental issue—it is a fundamental necessity for public health and quality of life. Without urgent solutions, the city’s livability will continue to decline. Our country is evolving rapidly and experiencing significant modernization, but it faces deep-rooted challenges that threaten its future sustainability. Key issues such as air pollution, inflation, and the erosion of workplace morale must be addressed. Investment in education, workforce training, and sustainable environmental practices is crucial.
Mongolia remains resilient, but the road ahead requires a joint effort for a prosperous, bright future.
About Bolormaa Purevjav
Bolormaa Purevjav holds a PhD in Mining Engineering from the University of British Columbia (UBC). She is an engineering economist and an independent researcher with many years of experience in social performance and water resources management. A graduate of UBC’s Mining Engineering program, she currently serves as a Senior Lecturer at the German-Mongolian Institute for Resources and Technology (GMIT).
Great observations! Wonderful insights!